Mapalo Simon
Mapalo Simon caught my attention as a fellow graduate from The University of the Arts class of 2020. His fashion designs fuse a personal approach to engaging with materials, utilising a conceptual gaze of current cues and trends. It is particularly interesting to consider Mapalo’s practice in the age of sustainable fashion. For example, through his fashion designs he represents the way in which existing garments can be upcycled, reconstructed and imagined into a new way of seeing. This tactile process of engineering the garment shows an insightful and futuristic way of understanding how designing can be both experimental and environmentally friendly. In a recent interview with Mapalo, he explains his design process, while we also discussed what it means to be a young designer today in the ever-growing space of fashion.
“We need to eradicate the idea that all young designers are working towards being employees for big brands and start looking at designers as the next big brands themselves.”
Where did your interest in fashion design begin?
From an early age I was interested in fashion. My parents had always been pretty fashionable and I think seeing them made me start collecting trainers and vintage clothing. I never considered studying fashion until I got to college as it had always just been a fascination of mine. But it was at university that I was first able to see and understand the process behind what I’d always been interested in. Once I began drawing and up-cycling clothing I bridged the gap between fashion being a hobby and it being a career.
How would you describe your design practice and what are your main influences in fashion?
I would describe my design process as explorative, intensive and organic. I always attempt to make something that is unique and worth creating to convey something through what I create. I think this is reflected in my design process as I spend a lot of time researching cues and influences, then relating them back into design features. The largest part of my design process is sampling, I often spend weeks physically collaging parts of garments together and experimenting with pocketing, proportions and finishing to reach the best outcome for a garment.
Can you tell me about your experience of studying fashion design?
My experience of fashion design has been completely different to what I anticipated it would be like. For the most part fashion is taking measurements and pattern cutting or creating tech drawings. I think a really big misconception of fashion is that it’s a crazy fun process that is spontaneous all the time, although, there are certain aspects of the design process that can be like this. Moreover, fashion is methodical and repetitive because it has to be so precise. I really enjoy designing and sewing but these parts of the process are only as successful as the work that you put in between that isn’t so creative.
What do you feel is missing from the fashion industry?
I think the fashion industry needs to redistribute funding for new designers and focus on creating platforms to find and support these creatives. We often only see promotion for young talent in the form of feature articles or editorials and whilst this does generate exposure, it is only for a short amount of time. I believe that giving them long-standing platforms and events that they can create through and reach out to new audiences would be more beneficial and redistribute the monopoly that large brands currently have on the industry. We need to eradicate the idea that all young designers are working towards being employees for big brands and start looking at designers as the next big brands themselves.
I really like your upcycled converse trainer prototype, can you tell me about the creative process which inspired this piece?
The converse trainers that I designed are really an amalgamation of my style and need for experimentation. I’d always loved the idea of shoe design but knew I didn’t have the machinery to execute any of my ideas. After working with converse at the start of last year I was gifted a couple of pairs of trainers so I decided that I’d use these as an opportunity to reconstruct a trainer, rather than making one from scratch. I really had a lot of fun making these as I had to work out how I could manipulate features of the Chuck Taylor so that I could implement some of my design features. I wanted to make a silhouette that was avant-garde and slightly futuristic, but at the same time retained the classic feel of a converse trainer.
Out of all of your collections and fashion creations, which is your favourite piece and why?
I think my favourite pieces at Studio Mapalo are the ones that I’m working on at the moment. As somebody who is new to fashion I consistently find that every new capsule that I approach is a challenge not only in the sense of having to reimagine something new and relevant but also in that I’m still learning and developing as a designer. Recently I have been trying to push myself to make garments that I haven’t made before which has required me to learn as I’m making, this is something that has been a really big test but I’ve found to be very rewarding.
Do you feel like the fashion industry is changing? And what can we expect to see from you in the future?
On the one hand I feel that fashion is becoming more digital and more technology is being integrated into the way we consume and display fashion, however on the other hand I think the fashion industry is seeing the emergence of ‘bedroom designers’ using traditional techniques and DIY culture. Both of these factors I believe are a result of the prominence of social media. I think the idea of the fashion industry itself is becoming outdated as there are a greater number of creatives paving their own way towards success. Big brands will always have a place in industry and I believe steps will be taken by these brands to enhance themselves technologically through animation and 3-D design. However I also believe this shift towards digital fashion will also aid the emergence of independent designers.
What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers based on your experiences so far?
Advice I would give to aspiring designers is to always pay more attention to your own progression rather than other people’s. I feel like as a young designer it can be easy to compare yourself to brands that are popular or succeeding. This can be dangerous, as I found myself compromising my designs to adhere to what I was anticipating other people would respond well to. As much as that is a factor that needs to be taken into account, in my opinion, it’s more important to stay integral to yourself and find a style that you both enjoy and believe in. Something that isn’t affected by trends.
Interview by Indera Tamara